🌿 Grgich Hills: A Masterclass in Napa Heritage, Farming Philosophy & Characterful Wines (A Wine Mojo Feature)

A curated selection of Grgich Hills wines awaits tasting, accompanied by detailed notes to enhance the experience.

There are occasions in wine when a story, a place, and the person telling it align so perfectly that the experience stays with you long after the glasses are cleared. That’s exactly what happened during a recent masterclass with Ivo Jeramaz, Winemaker and VP of Vineyards & Production at Grgich Hills Estate.

I’ve tasted Grgich wines before, but hearing their history told by someone so deeply woven into the fabric of the estate added a new dimension — not only to the wines themselves, but to the understanding of the family legacy behind them. What unfolded was an absorbing journey through Napa’s formative years, the Grgich family’s remarkable resilience, and the estate’s fiercely principled approach to farming and winemaking.

A Legacy Rooted in Courage and Curiosity

Ivo began by painting a vivid picture of his uncle, the late Mike Grgich — a man whose life story reads like a chapter from wine history. Born in the former Yugoslavia and unwilling to live under a communist regime, Mike left home in search of freedom and opportunity. A teacher urged him to consider California, calling it a “paradise,” and in 1958 he finally made the journey.

Napa Valley at that time was a shadow of the world-famous wine region it is today, but Mike quickly found work at some of the area’s most influential wineries, including Robert Mondavi and later Château Montelena. It was during his tenure at Montelena that the defining moment arrived: the 1976 Judgement of Paris, where Californian wines blind-tasted against top French bottles stunned the world by coming out on top.

This seismic moment encouraged Mike to create something of his own. Together with Austin Hills, he founded Grgich Hills Estate, breaking ground on 4 July 1977. The early years were steady and deliberate; Mike reinvested every earned dollar, bought fruit only from top-quality vineyards, and slowly built the foundations of what would become the fully fledged estate we know today. By 2003, Grgich Hills had transitioned into a true estate winery with its own vineyard holdings — a milestone achieved without compromise.

Ivo’s Story: From Engineering to the Soil Under His Boots

Ivo’s personal journey is just as compelling. Born in Croatia, he moved to California in 1986 with Mike’s help. Although he trained as a chemical engineer, it took him—by his own admission—“two weeks to forget engineering” once he stepped into the vineyards.

Raised in a family that ate only what they farmed organically, he found an instant connection to the land. This deep-rooted respect for nature became central to his approach and now shapes everything at Grgich Hills, from vineyard management to long-term sustainability decisions.

Farming as Philosophy: Organic, Biodynamic & Regenerative

At Grgich Hills, farming isn’t treated as a technical requirement — it’s a belief system.

Ivo explained how, in 1996, he made the decisive move away from conventional vineyard spraying, shifting the estate fully into organic and biodynamic practices and achieving CCOF certification.

More recently, the estate has evolved further, embracing Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) principles. Today, their vineyards are vibrant ecosystems where cover crops, flowers, and grazing sheep all play a part in building soil health and biodiversity.

It’s a long-term commitment, and one that shows clearly in the character and energy of the wines.

1.   Grgich Hills Estate sauvignon Blanc, Fume Blanc 2021, Napa Valley

100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes grown in south napa in Carneros. The proximity to San Francisco Bay makes the area 6-7 degrees cooler which contributes to the elevated acidity in the wine. The proximity to the Pacific Ocean allows for cooler temperatures and assists in protecting the area from the effects of global warming. 

Grape harvest takes place at night to preserve freshness and protect from microbial spoilage. In the winery only indigenous yeast is used to promote terroir identity and allows a differentiation in the wines year by year. Fermentation takes place in 5000lt Foudre. Wine remains on lees for 6 months in neutral Foudre.

Tasting Note: Pale lemon, medium + intensity, citrus lemon, lime, butter, gooseberry, melon, white peach, vanilla, cumin spice, hints of white pepper, green bell pepper, flint. On the palate it is dry, medium+ acidity, medium alcohol medium+ body (more of a textural body), medium+ flavour intensity, creamy texture with smooth mouthfeel, long finish, outstanding quality due to its exceptional balance between the broad aromatics, their intensity and the wine’s acidity, the oak is subtle and gives dimension and depth of flavour and the long finish brings everything together harmoniously.

2.   Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 2022, Napa Valley

The Chardonnay grapes ae also grown in the American Canyon and Carneros vineyards and benefit from the cooler, maritime breezes and morning fog that allow slow ripening of the grapes and the development of complex flavours.

Fermented and aged 10 months in 80% barrels and 20% Foudre. The barrels are French oak 40% new and 60% neutral.

Tasting Note: Pale lemon, pronounced intensity, ripe peach, apricot, ripe pineapple, blossom, honeysuckle hints of brioche, cream, caramel & vanilla, hints of toast. Dry, medium+ acidity, high but well integrated alcohol, full body, medium+ flavour intensity, creamy with long finish. Outstanding.

3.   Grgich Hills Estate Merlot, 2020, Napa Valley 

The Merlot grows both in the cooler American Canyon and Carneros vineyards and in the warmer Yountville vineyard. It is blended from all three vineyards to create a balanced, complex wine that combines the richness and depth from the warmer climates and perfume and bright fruitiness from the cooler climates.

A 93% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Fermented with indigenous yeasts and oak aged for 20 months in French oak barriques of which 37% new and 63% is neutral.

Tasting Note: Deep ruby, pronounced intensity, ripe fruit, black cherry, blackcurrant, black plum, prune, liquorice, cola, milk chocolate, coffee, vanilla, dried meat. Dry, high acidity, medium + sticky tannins, high alcohol, full body, pronounced flavour intensity spanning primary secondary and tertiary. Smooth palate with long finish. Complex, with balanced alcohol, outstanding quality.  A classic Napa Merlot with depth and finesse that develop further in the bottle over a few years.

4.   Grgich Hills Estate Zinfandel, 2019, Napa Valley

From Grgich’s 34-acre vineyard, which is located above Calistoga, the warmest of their five vineyards and the sole source of Grgich’s Zinfandel. Its northeast exposure catches abundant morning sun but is shaded from the hot, late afternoon sun and combined with the vineyard’s gravelly loam soil, creates the perfect spot to grow this varietal.

Blend of 98% Zinfandel 2% Petite Syrah. Fermented with indigenous yeast, pressed off the skins early to retain fruit character, in stainless steel tanks. It has matured for 18 months in neutral French oak barrels.

Tasting Note: Medium garnet, medium+ intensity, vanilla, cloves, prune, dried cranberry, some cooked red cherry fruit also, cinnamon spice, hint of black pepper, meaty. Dry, medium acidity, medium tannin, high alcohol, full body, medium+ flavour intensity, medium+ finish. Very good quality. Although the aromas and flavours showcase complexity and the structure is largely fine and balanced, its alcohol content stretches a little further than anticipated.

5.   Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2020, Napa Valley

2020 was a challenging but ultimately one of the most rewarding vintages. Due to low rainfall in 2020, the vines prepared themselves for drought by producing less leaves, which requires less water. The heat and drought produced exceptionally low yields but with excellent quality.

A blend of 83% Cab. Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc fermented with indigenous yeasts and with a 4- week skin contact. It spent 20 months in French oak.

Tasting Note: Deep ruby, blackberry, ripe black cherry, eucalyptus, liquorice, violet blossom, vanilla, cinnamon spice. Dry, high acidity, high fine-grained tannins, high alcohol, full body, with pronounced flavour intensity, moreish and delicious, with long finish. Elegant and balanced with well-integrated alcohol. Outstanding quality.

What struck me most during this session was how Grgich Hills balances tradition with intention. Their wines are polished but never overworked, expressive yet grounded — and above all, they feel honest. Ivo’s storytelling brought the estate’s history to life, but the wines themselves completed the narrative.

From the precision of the Fumé Blanc to the structured elegance of the Cabernet, each glass offered a window into the estate’s values: respect for the land, thoughtful winemaking, and a belief that great wine begins long before harvest.

If you’re curious to explore these wines, they are available through The General Wine Company — and I can genuinely say they’re worth seeking out.